Comments

1. Joe C
   December 1st, 2006 | 10:22 am

   Seems cool, but the translation is pretty much impossible to follow. Someone needs to rewrite this and include some real instructions.

2. Anonymous 342
   December 5th, 2006 | 9:59 am

   OKAY, I’M HAVING A SLOW DAY AT THE OFFICE. SO I DECIDED TO ATTEMPT TO TRANSLATE THIS INTO ENGLISH. I COULDN’T GET IT ALL AND YOU’LL KNOW WHERE I DIDN’T. BUT I WAS ABLE TO PUT A GOOD DEAL OF I IN ORDER USING MY MENIAL KNOWLEDGE OF JAPANESE GRAMMATICAL STRUCTURE AND A BIT OF COMMON SENSE. I TOOK THE LIBERTY OF ADDING SOME COMMENTS THAT MIGHT BE HELPFUL, BUT THIS IS ACTUALLY A REALLY DIFFICULT PROJECT. IF YOU WANT TO ATTEMPT IT, MAKE FIVE AT THE SAME TIME. ONE JUST MIGHT WORK. ALSO, IF ANYONE HAS A BETTER IDEA ON HOW TO MAKE THE DRIVE SYSTEM THEY ARE WELCOME TO SHARE.

   After the main rotor, a little between turning the number, when releasing the hand, 50 [senchime]
   About torr coming up, that way direction of the fuselage without changing, about the 1 turning completely, in the foot descending/disembarking (I have no idea…a note on flight? A description of the uniqueness of his (or her) design?)

   The first flight, it only flew about two seconds. But because it flew in the unique way a helecopter is supposed to fly I was a little satisfied.

   The [te] it is. But, being still unstable, furthermore in order, for the fuselage to be heavy, already it is a little light strong. When it comes, you think that it is the expectation where duration of flight extends more. (Not sure here. Could be noting the importance of the frame to be both light and strong. He then adds something about flight duration and weight. Maybe a reference to the ballast, but we get to that later.)

   Dimensions:
   Total length ……14.5cm total height ……9.0cm main rotor diameter ……13.4cm
   Tail rotor diameter ……3.6cm

   Weight:
   2.9grams (?)

   Bill of Material:

   Postcard or thin folder paper, rubber bands, paper clips (For ballast and axles)
   Beads (regular and cylindrical), super glue

   Also you could get these:

   Large Pulley ……12mm Small Pulley ……6mm

   Or you could make them…

   The pulleys used here are made with paper. With a bit of super glue it can be made strong enough for mild stresses. But plan on making more than one, as you will most likely fail the first couple times. (I would attempt to roll a strip of paper into a solid wheel, then gluing the circular pulley guides on the top and bottom. This might be too heavy though.)

   The rubber band which runs between the main and tail rotor pulleys is very small (originally, ‘superfine’) [himo] where the thread for handicraft is wound. (No idea on this last part, though it could either be a reference to the need to make the frame strong enough to take the stresses of the pull of the band, or possibly the need for the maker to custom make a rubber band for the pulley belt. I’m thinking you could take a really small rubber band and split it down the middle with a hobby knife, thus making it lighter and with less pull)

   It is difficult to slip, in addition, when making the wheel, to bind it is easy. (? The wheels tend to bind easily, causing the rotor belt to slip?)

   As for the amount of tail rotor thrust needed to keep the helicopter stable, adjustment and repeated flights will be necessary (see note).

   As far as the helicopter ballast is concerned, it is best to fly it first without it. Then add paperclips little by little until you can achieve a stable flight. If necessary, cut small pieces off of the paperclips for a more precise adjustment. In this model a hovering state could almost be achieved with 3 ballast paperclips. 4 is too heavy and causes the nose to dive.

   Notes:

   -Care must be taken when straightening the central axle paperclip; if it is not entirely straight the bends in the axle will slow the revolutions of the rotor, decreasing thrust.
   -If the helicopter tends to spin, the size of the tail rotor can be adjusted larger (if it wants to spin with the rotor) or smaller (if it tends to spin opposite the rotor). This is a lot easier than adjusting pulley sizes or tail spar length.
   -The rubber band is cut off when some time you use, immediately. In addition, because it is thick, it winds and the lump is caught in the body. It becomes the sea urchin. (I’m not exactly sure what is being said here. The fact of the matter is that I don’t really know how the drive system works on this machine, but I have a few ideas I would like to try. The one I’m thinking could be referred to here is a small rubber band running down the length of the axle. It would be fastened to the chassis at one end and an ‘ell’ bend in the axle at the other end (most probably the bottom end). He might be trying to tell us that the rubber band tends to bind in the axle casing over time, or if it develops knots (sea urchins?) from twisting. I don’t know, I’m open to suggestions).
   -The person who uses the line which extends the ○ clip, blurring is little exactly in size of the hole of the beads.
   Reference. (No clue. ‘Blurring’ seems to refer to fast rotation at times. Not sure.)
   -Tail rotor equipped helicopter of educational foundation electronic school home page (possible reference to a website that describes the way a helicopter works)
   -Development of rubber power helicopter of ○ airplane atelier (Possibly the author is telling us that he has a rubber powered business card airplane in the works. That would certainly be interesting…if grammatically challenging)

3. Elissa Englund
   December 5th, 2006 | 10:15 am

   Wow! Thanks for posting that … it beats the Google translation, for sure!

4. Miri & Gage
   January 24th, 2007 | 3:07 pm

   thanks, we have been dying to try this ever since we found this while researching ornithopters for a school project.

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